Cosmetics Europe

The extracellular matrix (ECM) plays a pivotal role in determining the structure and function of the skin. Collagen and elastin, in particular, are responsible for providing tensile strength and elasticity, respectively. However, imbalances in the components of the extracellular matrix (ECM) during tissue engineering often result in the deterioration of the mechanical properties and physiological relevance of dermal substitutes, in part due to the detrimental effect of ascorbic acid (AA) on elastic fibre biosynthesis. The objective of this study is to investigate the potential of a synthetic elastic protein (SEP) to improve ECM remodelling and to restore the equilibrium between collagen and elastin in reconstructed dermal tissues. Primary fibroblasts monolayers were treated with increasing concentrations of SEP in the presence or not of AA without affecting cytotoxicity. Western blot and immunofluorescence analyses showed that in the presence of AA - which typically reduced elastin synthesis- SEP improved elastic fibre formation without affecting type I collagen assembly. Additionally, 3D dermal substitutes treated with SEP and AA were analysed at the ultrastructural scale showing a specific colocalization of SEP with fibrillin-rich fibrils. Finally, dynamic mechanical analyses were conducted to measure mechanical properties of decellularized ECM. In the presence of SEP, we observed an increase of 46% and 40% of elastic and Young's moduli respectively. By restoring ECM integrity, SEP is emerging as a promising biomimetic tool for the development of 3D skin substitutes. Its application has the potential to improve the physiological relevance and therapeutic value of engineered skin tissues.

A Paradigm Shift in Lip Gloss Formulation via Irreversible Thermal Transformation of Silicones Scope of the Research This research program addressed a fundamental challenge in cosmetic science: the inherent physicochemical limitations of traditional lipid-based lip gloss systems. Conventional formulations, while offering some moisturization, are plagued by poor slip, a heavy and greasy sensory profile, and chronic physical instability leading to phase separation and pigment dulling. The scope of this work was to investigate and harness a novel phenomenon—irreversible thermal transformations in silicone polymers—to engineer a next-generation lip gloss that transcends these limitations. The project was conducted within a rigorous scientific and regulatory framework, adhering to both Egyptian (ES 5568/2006) and European (EC 1223/2009) cosmetic safety standards, and involved 478 systematically designed experiments to validate its core hypotheses. Key Findings and Conclusions The investigation yielded several groundbreaking findings that establish a new frontier in lip product development: 1. Discovery of Irreversible Thermal Transformation: The research provides robust experimental evidence that specific silicone polymers, notably dimethiconol, undergo a permanent structural reorganization when subjected to controlled high-temperature processing (exceeding 110°C) in a lipid-containing medium. This is not a mere viscosity change but a fundamental molecular shift from a viscous liquid state to a solid yet highly elastic, rubber-like network. This transformation, indicative of thermally-induced cross-linking, creates an entirely new material class with hybrid properties. 2. Unprecedented Performance Enhancement: The optimized silicone-based formulation, a direct result of this thermal processing, demonstrated a 12-fold improvement in slip performance compared to conventional lipid systems. Quantitative rheological analysis confirmed a final slip coefficient of 0.07-0.09, contrasting sharply with the 0.80-0.90 typical of lipid-based benchmarks. This translates to a silky, non-occlusive, and lightweight application experience, directly overcoming the primary sensory drawback of incumbent products. 3. Superior Physical and Temporal Stability: The newly formed silicone network exhibited exceptional physical integrity. When subjected to accelerated stability testing via clinical centrifugation (3500 RPM for 3 minutes)—a condition that separates lipid systems in seconds—the formulation resisted any phase separation. Long-term stability assessments projected a shelf life exceeding 12 months, resolving the critical issue of product failure that afflicts lipid architectures. 4. Validation of a Multi-Material Integration Strategy: The research successfully demonstrated that precise thermal and shear processing enables the creation of an integrated functional network from seemingly incompatible materials. This allowed for the combination of the superior slip and stability of silicones with the moisturizing efficacy of lipids (lanolin and ceramides), resulting in a sophisticated multi-layer architecture on the lip. In conclusion, this work successfully bridges the critical gap between cosmetic elegance and high performance. It presents a scientifically-validated, platform technology for developing lip products that offer unparalleled sensory attributes, radical stability, and measurable efficacy, positioning them as a definitive advancement over existing market offerings.

Extracellular vesicles (EVs) have gained attention in the cosmetics industry for their role in intercellular communication and tissue regeneration. They transfer bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids, promoting skin repair, rejuvenation, and anti-aging effects. Human mesenchymal stem cell-derived EVs are particularly valued for their ability to enhance collagen production, reduce inflammation, and improve skin texture and hydration. However, their use is prohibited by regulatory agencies. Plant- and bacterial-derived EVs are being explored to meet the demand for innovative cosmetics. Despite their potential, challenges such as regulatory approval, high production costs, and product stability need to be addressed to fully realize the benefits of EV-based cosmetics. This paper examines the mechanisms, benefits, market trends, and prospects of EV-based skincare products, highlighting their transformative impact on the cosmetic industry.

To perform a comprehensive statistical characterization of the Double Plate method (ISO 23675) as a potential invitro alternative to the invivo reference method (ISO 24444:2019) for determining the sun protection factor (SPF). Five qualified laboratories were involved in testing the Double Plate method, as part of a large-scale ring test conducted by the International Consortium 'ALT-SPF'. About 32 sunscreen products, reflecting diverse global formulations, were tested using both the invivo reference method and the Double Plate method. This method employs spectrophotometric measurements of sunscreen applied to UV-transparent plates with standardized robotic application to minimize the variability. A mathematical adjustment was introduced to address the initial bias compared to the reference method and further assessed in a follow-up ring test with 12 products, including ISO standards. The Double Plate method exhibited very high intra- and inter-laboratory reproducibility throughout the study, consistently meeting the precision criteria set by ISO/TC217/WG7. Following the mathematical adjustment, the accuracy significantly improved, demonstrating a close alignment with the reference method. The Double Plate method demonstrates excellent reproducibility and, following optimization, high accuracy for the SPF determination. These findings endorse the Double Plate method as a robust and ethical invitro alternative to the invivo reference method for SPF testing. This paved the way for its publication as a new ISO standard (ISO 23675), in December 2024, supporting consumer safety and informed product choices.

The neuropeptide oxytocin (OXT) is involved in social bonding, reproduction, and childbirth. Its activity is mediated by the oxytocin receptor (OXTR), also expressed in the skin. OXT alleviates dermal fibroblast senescence, and OXT levels correlate with visible skin aging. OXT inhibits nociceptive signaling and promotes neuronal plasticity. Here, we demonstrate OXT-like benefits of OXTR activation for skin touch sensoriality and nociception, as well as visible skin health and beauty indicators, using an aqueous extract of Hyacinthus orientalis bulbs. OXTR activation was evaluated in a Chinese hamster ovary (CHO) cell model. Nociception and innervation benefits were investigated in keratinocyte/sensory neuron coculture models. A placebo-controlled clinical study evaluated gentle touch receptivity, nociception, skin tone, elasticity, and wrinkling. The extract activated OXTR and enhanced dermal fibroblast proliferation in vitro. In the keratinocyte-neuron coculture, the HO extract lowered nociceptive CGRP release below that of the unstimulated and OXT controls and promoted neuronal survival and dendricity. An organ-on-a-chip coculture showed decreased electrical activity and increased neuronal peripherin. Clinically, we observed selective left-side frontal alpha-wave activation, indicating pleasant sensation, reduced nociception, enhanced skin glow, improved elasticity, and reduced wrinkling. This extract thus shows high value for holistic wellbeing solutions, enhancing the skin’s receptivity to pleasant sensations and promoting well-aging.

Skin aging is characterized by compromised epidermal homeostasis and dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ) integrity, resulting in reduced stem cell potential and impaired tissue regeneration. This study investigated the effects of Andrographis paniculata extract (APE) on keratinocyte stem cells (KSCs) and DEJ composition in human skin. Using human skin explants and cell culture models, we demonstrated that APE treatment enhances DEJ composition by increasing Collagen IV and Laminin production while decreasing MMP-9 expression, without altering epidermal structure or differentiation. In the same model, APE preserved stemness potential by upregulating markers related to niche components (collagen XVII and β1-integrin), proliferation (Ki-67 and KRT15), and stem cell capacity (Survivin and LRIG1). In vitro studies revealed that APE selectively stimulated KSC proliferation without affecting transit amplifying cells and promoted Collagen IV and Laminin secretion, particularly in KSCs. Furthermore, in a co-culture model simulating a compromised DEJ (UVB-induced), APE increased Laminin production in KSCs, suggesting a protective effect against photo-damage. These findings indicate that APE enhances DEJ composition and preserves stem cell potential, highlighting its promise as a candidate for skin anti-aging strategies targeting stem cell maintenance and extracellular matrix stability to promote skin regeneration and repair.