Institute of Skin and Product Evaluation

ObjectiveThis study assessed the efficacy and tolerability of M89 in patients with rosacea associated with erythema and sensitive skin.MethodsIntra-individual study in a split-face design comparing after 30 days M89 twice daily and usual skin care in 20 adult subjects with rosacea and sensitive skin. M89 contains 89% Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) and 0.4% hyaluronic acid. It is hypoallergenic and contains no perfume and this convenes in rosacea. Contained minerals reinforce the natural defences of the skin in restoring the natural skin barrier, stimulating antioxidant activity and reducing inflammation, commonly observed in subjects with rosacea. Clinical evaluations included assessment of erythema, desquamation, papules and pustules, skin tightness, dryness, burning sensation, itching, stinging and stinging test as well as local tolerability. Instrumental evaluations included skin hydration and TEWL. Subject satisfaction was assessed at Days 15 and 30. Demodex density was assessed at Day 30.ResultsA significant superiority of M89 over the standard skin care was observed for erythema, skin tightness and dryness (all P≤0.05) as early as Day 15, the skin stinging test was significantly in favour of M89 (P<0.05 at Day 15 and P<0.01 at Day 30) and for skin hydration (P<0.0001) at Day 15 and 30 with no difference in mean Demodex density between M89 and usual skin care after 30 days. Tolerance was excellent and subject satisfaction very high.ConclusionStudy results concerning M89 are encouraging for its use either alone or as an adjuvant daily skin care to topical medication in patients with persistent centrofacial erythema of rosacea with no more than 3 papules and pustules.

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The increasing concern about the environmental impact of ingredients largely used as sunscreens today is pushing research towards new frontiers for the synthesis and degradation potential of innovative sun protection structures. This study deals with the design, synthesis, efficacy evaluation, and environmental impact of new photo-stable molecules at extended electronic conjugation and which have the ‘charge-transfer’ type of optical transition (push and pull). They efficiently perform absorption of electro-magnetic radiation in the UVB and UVA regions. A preliminary screening, dealing with a whole series of aromatic donors, led to the selection of a key substrate derived from waste material, provided with low environmental impact and largely available on the market. As far as the acceptor was concerned, an ester with cyan-acrylic structure and functionalized with aliphatic chains emerged as the most suitable. This allowed a shift of the λ of absorption in the range of the ultraviolet wavelengths. The synthesis procedures include an acid-catalyst-fitted esterification, condensation, and cold crystallization. It was continuously monitored with suitable characterization instruments (GC-MS, 1H NMR, 13C NMR), in order to avoid by-products and parasitic reactions. The resulting structures (patent pending) are composed by a furan core condensed with cyano-acrylic esters, derivatized with branched chains of hydrocarbons of medium length. The obtained structures are capable of good absorption in the range of wavelengths between 300 and 400 nm. Because of their structures, the new molecules are largely soluble in many common oils and cosmetic ingredients. The new molecules have been successively evaluated in terms of photo-stability, biodegradability, compatibility, and UVB-UVA protection capability, both in-vivo and in-vitro, in comparison with existing sunscreens.

Background: Pentacyclic triterpenoids improve epidermal barrier function and induce collagen production. Here, their effects on cutaneous aging by means of objective instrumental measurements were elucidated. Methods: Reconstituted human epidermis, cultivated keratinocytes and fibroblasts were incubated with Terminalia arjuna triterpenes (T. arjuna bark extract), and mRNA and protein expression of various genes was determined using microarray analysis, qRT-PCR and ELISA techniques. Clinical efficacy of T. arjuna bark extract versus vehicle control cream was elucidated in 30 patients and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration and elasticity were measured. Another 30 female patients in their postmenopausal phase were treated with a similar regime, and skin sebum content, cutaneous blood microcirculation and skin density/echogenicity were assessed. Results: Incubation with T. arjuna triterpenes increased FGF-2, TSP-1, TGF-β and CTGF expression, and VEGF secretion in vitro. Elevated lactate dehydrogenase release upon sodium dodecyl sulphate challenge was reversed by the application of T. arjuna bark extract. T. arjuna bark extract decreased TEWL, improved skin moisturization, reduced scaliness and led to significantly improved skin elasticity. Also, increases in blood microflow and skin sebum content as well as improved skin thickness/echogenicity were noted on postmenopausal skin, resulting in visible reduction of sagging skin on the jowls as demonstrated by digital photography. Conclusion:T. arjuna bark extract appears as an innovative active ingredient that exerts versatile antiaging properties in vitro and in vivo.

Objective To investigate the relationships between binge eating disorder and night eating in severely obese patients. Design Longitudinal study following biliopancreatic diversion, when any preoccupation with food and weight is completely abandoned. Materials and Methods Structured interview prior to the operation and at the 1, 2, and 3-year follow-up visit. Results Nearly complete disappearance of binging behavior and no changes in the frequency of night eating. Conclusion Binge eating and night eating are widely overlapping but different behaviors; night eating appears to be fully independent of preoccupation with food and dieting. © 1999 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Int J Eat Disord 25: 335–338, 1999.

In the past year, 1200 consecutive eczematous patients were tested with cocamidopropylbetaine 1% aq. Contact allergy was evinced in 46 subjects (3.8%), while irritant reactions (slight erythema only) were observed in 15 cases (1.25%). 30 out of 46 patients with allergic reactions were subsequently tested with the substances used in the synthesis of cocamidopropylbetaine, together with a sample of cocamidopropylbetaine declared by the supplier to possess a greater purity. In all 30 subjects, positive reactions were obtained to 3-dimethylaminopropylamine (DMPA) 1% aq., while the cocamidopropylbetaine defined of purer grade, at 0.5% and 1% aq., gave positive reactions in 10% and 53% of cases, respectively. These results suggest that the DMPA present at various levels as an impurity in the commercial product is responsible for cocamidopropylbetaine allergy. Owing to the inconsistency of positive reactions to cocamidopropylbetaine of variable purity, and to the consistency of positive reactions to DMPA, it seems likely that these reactions may also be connected with the presence in the product, defined of purer grade, of unknown amounts of DMPA as impurity. Structural similarities between the 2 molecules cannot be considered in this case, because the DMPA structure is radically changed in its transformation to the betaine structure. Further experiments with other molecules related to the above structures are in hand.