Forensic Characterization and Comparison of Modern Nail Polish Products by Their Physical Features and Chemical Composition
Nail polish can serve as valuable evidence in forensic investigations as it is often found on the hands and feet of individuals. Nail polish can break off and transfer easily during self-defense actions or forceful contact, such as in cases of kidnapping, sexual assault, or homicide. These residues can provide clues about who was at the scene, as well as where, when, and how the event evolved. However, compared to other types of paints commonly analyzed in forensic laboratories, limited forensic research has been conducted on the chemical composition and discrimination capabilities of popular nail products. The lack of information makes it challenging to interpret nail polish evidence because the forensic scientist cannot accurately evaluate how common or rare the evidence’s features are within the relevant population context. This project expanded the knowledge base on nail polishes from various angles, enabling the forensic community to use nail polish evidence to its full potential. First, the study compiled a collection of over one hundred sources of nail polish chemistry, formulations, and industry regulations, through a comprehensive literature review on cosmetics textbooks, patents, webpages, and scientific articles, with a forensic perspective in mind. The findings of this repository have been organized into detailed documents and supporting figures to provide an overview of the complexity of nail polish chemistry for nitrocellulose-based (NC), UV-curable gels (gel), and dip powder (DP) products. Following an investigation of supporting literature, the project produced a dataset of 164 nail polishes, comprising NC, Gel, and DP polishes from five brands and eleven colors, for examination. When possible, the set included matching brands and colors across all three types of polish. Characterization and classification of these main polish types were performed using physical and chemical properties, as determined by macroscopical and microscopical examination, micro-solubility testing, Attenuated Total Reflectance Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR), and Scanning Electron Microscopy with Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometry (SEM-EDS). Visually, DP samples were distinguishable from NC and Gel samples by microscopical examination alone, due to the distinct presence of micro-polymeric beads. The NC and Gel polishes were distinguished from one another using micro-solubility tests, where NC is soluble in acetone and produces a deep blue color reaction in the presence of diphenylamine in sulfuric acid, while Gels do not react to these solvents. The microscopic examination and micro-solubility steps, in conjunction with macroscopical examination (color comparison), discriminated all comparison pairs except 33 of them, all of
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