Letters from Andalucía. I. Granada

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This is the first of nine “Letters from Andalucía” by the Catalan artist and writer Santiago Rusiñol i Prats. These poetic texts parallel his development as a painter, from Impressionism to Symbolism. He visited Andalucía in the autumn-winter of 1895–1896, primarily residing in Granada, and published his impressions in the Barcelona newspaper La Vanguardia and later in Impresiones de arte, a compilation of articles recounting his “artistic travels” in France, Switzerland, Italy, and Spain. Rusiñol's first “letter” describes his journey across Spain, arrival in Granada at night-time, his expectations, and impression of the city and the Alhambra. He laments the poor weather, critiques architectural changes, and comments on tourism. He playfully indulges in tourist activities himself: he hires a guide, eats tapas, and adopts an Andalucían accent. But he refuses to follow a set itinerary in the Albaicín area, emphasizing its labyrinthine character and dreamy, sensual atmosphere, juxtaposed with the poverty of its inhabitants, whom he likens to characters in a picturesque painting. He concludes with a somber vision of the Alhambra, dissolving in the pouring rain.