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  • https://doi.org/10.1007/s00367-025-00802-yCopy DOI Icon

Process-based numerical modelling up and down beach morphological states

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Abstract

One of the most applied models for the characterization of sandy beaches is the Wright and Short (Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis) Beach State Model (BSM) that empirically relates dissipative, intermediate and reflective beach types to wave conditions and sediment characteristics. Here we utilize the Delft3D-4 modelling system and create an idealized morphodynamics model to explain beach morphological changes under varying wave conditions. The model accounts for the 3D hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes and is capable of simulating both erosive upstate and accretive downstate sequences. Under an energetic condition, the profile develops into an alongshore-uniform dissipative two-bar profile. Under low wave-energy condition, the morphology develops downstate, leading to initiation and evolution of rip currents following onshore movement of the bar. The bar-formation process starts with sediment erosion at the point with maximum suspended load transport by undertow and sediment deposition on the offshore side of the breakpoint. Later, the sandbar develops as a result of sediment transport convergence of wave asymmetry and the undertow and moves offshore.

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