Vike Plock's Modernism, Fashion and Interwar Women Writers is a compelling study of the ways that fashion culturally conditioned Edith Wharton, Jean Rhys, Rosamond Lehmann, Elizabeth Bowen, and Virginia Woolf. Plock is concerned in particular with how these writers explored, and were shaped by, what Georg Simmel has described as fashion's “antagonistic principles” of “differentiation” and “adaption” (qtd. in Plock 20)—that is, the tension between individual identity and the uniformity implied by assimilation into a wider community—and she aims to demonstrate that fashion “provided [these writers] with a rich conceptual framework for analysing the complex processes of identity formation” (1).The fate of the individual in the age of conformity is one of the central concerns of many early twentieth-century writers and thinkers, seen in the vexed attempts at autonomy of fictional heroines such as Carrie Meeber and Lily Bart as much as in the work of Simmel. Simmel and various writers associated with the Frankfurt School are important figures for Plock, but it is Pierre Bourdieu's conjoining of “haute couture” and “haute culture” that is key to her argument, and she particularly highlights his observation of the “homology” between “fashion garments” and “the goods of legitimate culture such as music, poetry, [and] philosophy” (qtd. in Plock 2). This homology underpins Plock's project as a whole, and she forcefully demonstrates what these five women's writing can tell us about their own concerns regarding the relation of the individual to the collective, and the individual's capacity for originality in the machine age. Similarly, she also analyzes the ways in which the professionalization of authorship and the emergence of the figure of the “celebrity author” affected the “working practices” of these women writers (3).Plock frames this analysis as an “investigat[ion]” of how these writers, “who were very clearly interested in sartorial fashions, developed their novels and authorial personas in response to contemporary market demands” (2). This, then, is also a book about “the market,” and the emerging consumer capitalism of this period, and follows on from studies such as Alissa Karl's Modernism and the Marketplace: Literary Culture and Consumer Capitalism (2009), Carey Mickalites's Modernism and Market Fantasy: British Fictions of Capital (2012), and Amy Kaplan's “Edith Wharton's Profession of Authorship” (in The Social Construction of American Realism, 1988). And, were this a study of five male writers of the period, one wonders whether it might simply have been called something like “Modernism and the Market,” regardless of “sartorial fashions.” Lest one suspect Plock of falling into a gender-essentializing trap, however, she explains that the gendered discourse around fashion limited the extent to which women writers could engage with the subject in their work without reinforcing gender stereotypes, or being dismissed as frivolous—and she explores the ways these writers appropriated this discourse to their own ends. In so doing, Plock aims to go further than recent work on modernism and fashion, and she is, as she tells us, one of the first to consider Wharton alongside both modernism and fashion as a “modern cultural condition” (43).The question of Wharton's relation to modernism has been much explored, most notably by Robin Peel and Jennifer Haytock, but Plock is nevertheless right to point out Wharton's absence from much of modernist studies, including that on modernism and material cultures. Wharton's inclusion here is explained not only by her “interest” in, and apparent opposition to, fashion, but also by her role as “an astute critic of modernism” (23, 25). Wharton is thus positioned in opposition to both modernism and fashion as “the grande dame of American realism” (25, 47). Yet Plock suggests that this opposition stems not from a place of reactionary conservatism, but from Wharton's “critical attitude towards an interwar publishing industry that commodified aesthetics” (25)—a reading of Wharton as a proto-Frankfurtian critic of the culture industry that, Plock notes, is new to scholars of both Wharton and modernism.In her first chapter, Plock addresses a range of Wharton's fiction, correspondence, and essays, particularly attending to those moments where Wharton's prose slips between sartorial, economic, and aesthetic metaphors. Plock sees Wharton as discerning that modernist literature, like modern fashion, was driven by a “veneration of novelty” (39) that, paradoxically, led to ever more pernicious standardization—avant-garde works such as Ulysses and Mrs Dalloway were not so much distinguished by their authors' imprimatur, as united by the leveling, market-driven, and ahistorical determination to “make it new,” at all costs.1 In contrast, Wharton's theory of artistic individuality and aesthetic value was rooted in a sense of “everlasting laws” that “condition beautiful things and forms,” and “she … regarded fashion disapprovingly as a destructive dynamic that problematically unsettled the relationship between commerce and aesthetics, between deep-seated beauty and cheap originality” (46, 47). The consequences of fashion's “destructive” force are far reaching—and Plock's final chapter on Woolf links its fostering of a flimsy “originality” with a drive toward uniformity in aesthetics and politics, and the 1930s slide into fascism.Wharton is to a certain extent an outlier for Plock in that, although ambivalent about fashion, and concerned about its capacity to act as an agent of uniformity, she did not (in Plock's terms) identify it as an “envoy of patriarchal modes of thinking” (219), as did Rhys and Lehmann, and, to a lesser extent, Woolf. A lively and lucid chapter on the still-understudied Rhys tracks the author's engagement with the interwar fashion industry. Plock argues that, in stories such as “Mannequin” (1927), the protagonist of which has to stand “motionless ‘for an hour to have a dress draped on her’” (79), Rhys critiques the exploitation of young women by the same fashion industry that purported to offer sartorial and consumerist liberation. In the many of Rhys's texts which end with a young woman destroyed and destitute, Plock sees an indictment of fashion's “seductive … narratives of advancement, transformation and improvement” (74), as well as a “pessimistic counterpoint to narratives about women's emancipation in the 1920s and 1930s” (75).In her chapter on the equally neglected Rosamond Lehmann, Plock focuses on Invitation to the Waltz (1932), suggesting that the novel's intertextual references to Vogue, on the one hand, and To the Lighthouse (1927), on the other, demonstrate Lehmann's careful negotiation of the line between “modernist experimentation” and “commercial marketability” (112), while also critiquing the uniformity demanded by contemporary fashion. By contrast, Plock argues, Elizabeth Bowen saw in fashion not only the dangers of a mass-produced conformity, but also the possibility of “creative … self-expression” (27). Plock suggests that Bowen carefully curated her authorial persona, maintaining her reputation for literary experimentation (and “difficulty”) even as she “began to occupy a more central place in the literary field of the interwar period” (165). Woolf, meanwhile, in works such as The Years (1937) and Three Guineas (1938), addressed the question of “how clothes and other sartorial objects constructed identity and coordinated individuals in social settings and configurations” (182). Together these chapters provide a welcome demonstration of how we might see these five writers together as thinking through the dilemmas and dangers of modern fashion.One of the few points that Wharton scholars may take issue with, however, is that Plock seems to see Wharton in the early years of her career as almost entirely detached from the commercial machinery of the publishing world, noting that it was “after the First World War” that “writing bec[a]me a very profitable occupation” for her (61), and only in the 1920s and 1930s that, “ironically,” the author “bec[ame] a bestselling novelist” and started to “demand from her publisher exactly the kind of publicity that she had rebuked twenty years earlier” (62). Yet Wharton was in fact demanding this very publicity (from Scribner's, John Murray, and Macmillan) from the earliest days of her career, even as she seemed to publicly rebuke it. Equally, Wharton became a bestselling novelist long before the First World War—in 1905, with the huge commercial success of The House of Mirth. Wharton was always already embroiled in the very culture industry that she also affected to critique; 1899 saw her approve an advertising blurb for a Philadelphia department store that titillatingly referred to her “wealth” and “first-hand intercourse with fashion” (Lee 172), and while she may have later criticized the “exhibitionism” of the photographs advertising Orlando, she herself had long consented to her photograph being used to sell her work. The many pieces of Wharton's writing that pose questions about publicity, literary value, and the commercialization of the written word must be seen as coming from a writer who was negotiating her own place within this world, as opposed to one who was (or even one who thought she was) surveying it from a rarefied, uncompromised moral high ground. Compelling as it is, Plock's discussion of Wharton's relationship to fashion, novelty, and an ever more commercialized literary “market” would be even more cogent had it acknowledged, and accounted for, both these contexts and the full nuances and apparent contradictions of Wharton's own authorial standpoint. Plock's study might too have profited by situating Wharton's criticism of the commercialization of literature in the light of the American publishing industry and intellectual milieu in which the author began her career; comparable critiques, such as those by William Dean Howells (“The Man of Letters as a Man of Business” [1893]) and Hamlin Garden (“Sanity in Fiction” [1903]), would also have provided further useful non-European context for the volume.In a sense, the chapter on Wharton acts as an extension of Plock's setting up, in her introduction, of the terms of her debate, and, in particular, in outlining exactly what she means by “fashion”—along with Simmel, Baudelaire, et cetera, Wharton becomes one more nineteenth-century cultural critic. The chapters on Rhys, Lehmann, Bowen, and Woolf, meanwhile, seem to be rooted in a more in-depth use of archival material, and a more thorough tying together of this material with both these authors' writing and their historical contexts. Nevertheless, this is a complex, highly stimulating, provocative, and, at times, challenging reading of Wharton's relationship to the literary marketplace and consumer capitalism, for which Plock's “fashion” often seems to act as a proxy. The invitation to consider Wharton as an early critic of high capitalism's cultural practices and production will prove constructive for many, while the bracketing of her as an “interwar” writer who was deeply engaged with debates around literary modernism furthers the ongoing challenge to the traditional categorization of Wharton as belonging to the fin de siècle.
Read more