École Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles

The jeans industry remains a significant polluter in the textile sector, with the production phase usually overlooked despite its crucial contribution to environmental impact. This study assessed the environmental performance of producing a pair of jeans in Tunisia, focusing on key processes like garment manufacture, washing and finishing. A gate-to-gate life cycle assessment (LCA) was performed. It begins with a characterization analysis of the assessed jeans (baseline scenario), highlighting the contribution of the key jeans production stages to the selected environmental impact categories (i.e. climate change and water use) defined by the ReCiPe2016 (V.1.1) Midpoint (H) method. The total impact of the assessed pair of jeans was 5.14kg CO2 eq and 81.68 × 10-3 m3 in terms of climate change and water use, with industrial washing being the main hotspot. Six alternative scenarios were then selected to explore potential strategies for improvement of the washing process. The evaluation results of the alternative scenarios were normalized and combined into a Single Environmental Performance Indicator, identifying the optimal scenario with the best overall results. Scenario six, combining 100% solar energy with stone washing, proved most effective, reducing climate impact by 15.2% and water use by 10%. Next, a data quality assessment (DQA) was carried out, focusing on data with a considerable influence on the LCIA results. Finally, two sensitivity analyses were conducted and revealed that climate change was most sensitive to heat use, while water use was most sensitive to tap water use. It also revealed consistent results across LCIA methods variation.

Smart textiles have transformed from passive fabrics into intelligent, multifunctional systems that can sense, respond to, and adapt to environmental stimuli. Among the various strategies to achieve such functionality, core-sheath fibers have emerged as versatile and structurally efficient approaches. This design enables the spatial separation and synergistic integration of distinct materials within a single fiber, allowing for the simultaneous optimization of the mechanical, electrical, thermal, and biological properties, thereby surpassing the performance of conventional blended, coated, or composite fibers. This review critically examines recent advances in smart core-sheath fibers, focusing on material integration strategies, interfacial compatibility, and structure-property relationships that determine functional performance. Various fabrication approaches, including coaxial electrospinning, wet spinning, melt spinning, microfluidic spinning, and thermal drawing, have been systematically evaluated for scalability, structural precision, and suitability for core-sheath fiber manufacturing. Furthermore, the review explores applications in wearable electronics, biomedical systems, energy harvesting, protective clothing, and environmental monitoring, where core-sheath structures enhance durability, adaptability, and resilience under mechanical and environmental stresses. Drawing on recent advances in materials science, fiber engineering, and smart textile technology, it provides a unified and holistic framework that connects material design, fabrication processes, and end-use functionality. Persistent challenges, such as interfacial stability, washability, and sustainability, are discussed, along with strategic perspectives and future research directions toward scalable, eco-friendly, and high-performance smart textile systems.

The rapid growth of wearable technology demands sustainable, flexible, and lightweight energy sources for various applications, ranging from health monitoring to electronic textiles. Although wearable devices based on the piezoelectric effect are widespread, achieving simultaneous breathability, waterproofness, and enhanced piezoelectric performance remains challenging. Herein, this study aims to develop a piezoelectric nanogenerator (PENG) using ZnO nanofillers in two morphologies (nanoparticles and nanorods) with a carbon coating (ZnO@C) core–shell structure to enhance piezoelectric performance. The electrospinning technique was employed to fabricate a lightweight, breathable, and water-resistant ZnO@C/PVDF membrane, enabling in situ electrical poling and mechanical stretching to enhance electroactive β-phase formation and thus improve piezoelectric performance. A maximum power density of 384.8 μW/cm3 was obtained at RL = 104 kΩ, with a maximum Vout = 19.9 V for ZnO@C nanorod-incorporated PVDF samples. The results demonstrate that ZnO@C nanorods exhibit superior voltage output due to their larger surface-to-volume ratio, leading to enhanced interaction with PVDF chains compared to nanoparticles. The fabricated membrane showed promising results with a water vapor transmission rate (WVTR) of ∼0.5 kg/m2/day, indicating excellent breathability, and a water contact angle of ∼116°, demonstrating significant waterproofness. These findings highlight the potential of the ZnO@C/PVDF electrospun membrane as an effective piezoelectric nanogenerator and energy harvester for wearable applications.

In response to the inadequate color-matching effectiveness and the difficulty of restoring color intentions in cultural heritage recreation, a Cultural Color Interactive Genetic Algorithm (Cultural Color IGA) is proposed, which combines a color network model and a color harmony prediction model. First, the role of the color network model in providing color genes for subsequent design is emphasized. Then, a dataset of 10,743 color and color rating data points is used to train 12 color harmony prediction models, with the most efficient stacking model selected to improve the efficiency of user evaluation of color schemes. A prototype system for color regeneration is built in Python, and a user interface is designed. The example analysis is conducted using the Yungang Grottoes as the source of color imagery, and image colorization is tested. Independent experiments compare the proposed method with traditional IGA in terms of average fitness, maximum fitness, and evaluation time. Fuzzy evaluation is applied to assess the effectiveness of cultural heritage color regeneration design. The results show that the trained stacking model achieves an accuracy of 65.52% in color harmony prediction, outperforming previous methods. Compared to the traditional IGA algorithm, Cultural Color IGA reduces the number of user evaluations by 67.4%, improves the average fitness by 22.68%, and increases the maximum fitness by approximately 13.37%. Regarding cultural heritage color regeneration effectiveness, 80.6% of respondents considered the generated color schemes to be of good or higher quality. This method not only generates design solutions with high cultural representation and color harmony but also improves the efficiency and sustainability of the design process by reducing trial numbers and manual evaluation workload. It demonstrates the potential of digital technologies in the protection and sustainable application of cultural heritage color, offering valuable references for the digital preservation and innovative design of cultural heritage.

La présence de déchets plastiques, qu’il s’agisse de macrodéchets, de microplastiques ou de fibres, est reconnue aujourd’hui à l’échelle planétaire comme un enjeu environnemental majeur. Par les activités et les populations qu’il concentre, le milieu urbain est considéré comme une source majeure de pollution plastique. Cet article présente de nouvelles données concernant les déchets plastiques et les fibres anthropiques dans les eaux de ruissellement, à l’aval d’un bassin versant péri urbain séparatif. Il propose aussi des extrapolations des flux transférés vers les milieux récepteurs à l’échelle du Grand Paris et du bassin de la Seine. L'abondance et la composition des macroplastiques, des microplastiques et des fibres anthropiques dans les eaux pluviales d'un bassin versant résidentiel péri-urbain (Sucy-en-Brie, France) du Grand Paris a été étudiée sur un an, entre juin 2018 et mai 2019, (macroplastiques) et 4 évènements pluvieux (fibres et microplastiques). Pour ce site, les concentrations en macroplastiques et microplastiques dans les eaux pluviales sont du même ordre de grandeur et atteignent quelques g/m3. En extrapolant à l'échelle de l'agglomération parisienne, la quantité estimée de déchets macroplastiques rejetés dans l'environnement par les réseaux séparatifs varie de 8 à 33 tonnes.an-1, tandis que les flux de microplastiques et de fibres anthropiques varient respectivement de 3 à 48 tonnes.an-1 et de 0,3 à 0,8 tonne.an-1. La confrontation des différentes données en vue d’établir des flux à l’échelle de l’agglomération mais aussi à l’échelle du bassin versant de la Seine démontre toute la complexité d’aborder cette pollution de manière systémique. Leur utilisation de manière opérationnelle à grande échelle est prématurée.

The development of a piezoresistive thread for characterizing airflow in the vicinity of filters implemented in Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) systems is presented. These threads exhibit a sensitive response with a gauge factor of 25 over 10000 cycles of elongation at 5% strain. The thread is then integrated in a laboratory scale ventilation duct to demonstrate that it can discriminate airflow speed between 1 and 3 m.s<sup xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink">−1</sup>, which is within the range of interest of HVAC systems.

Thermal comfort is essential for human well-being, influencing our perception of surrounding thermal conditions. Achieving thermal comfort typically requires energy for cooling or heating, prompting researchers to advocate for personal technologies due to their lower energy consumption (active on-body systems) compared to traditional methods (off-body systems). Advanced textiles are promoted as a sustainable solution, providing thermal comfort over a wider temperature range without additional energy consumption (passive on-body systems). This comprehensive review examines various types of comfort, with a focus on thermal comfort, exploring influencing factors and standards for assessing advanced textile performance. Additionally, the study emphasizes the importance of developing infrared (IR) emission control technologies to enhance thermal comfort, as radiant heat significantly contributes to body heat loss. Recent advancements in passive radiative cooling/heating layer fabrication are discussed. Among the technologies utilized for creating layers with radiant heat control properties, electrospinning technology is emphasized in this study. Electrospinning technology, renowned for its simplicity, compatibility with other methods, controllability, repeatability, and burgeoning industrial applications, is of particular interest to researchers. This article explores how passive design of electrospun layers can enhance radiant heat reflection and absorption for heating and cooling purposes. These layers are passive smart textiles that adapt to weather conditions using particles added during fabrication. The article discusses the advantages and challenges of this approach, highlighting the potential of electrospinning technology in creating smart textiles with improved thermal properties. The overarching goal is to aid ongoing research in achieving thermal comfort across diverse environments.