Underutilized Tropical Herbs in Cosmeceuticals

Background: Scar formation and impaired wound healing represent significant challenges in dermatology and aesthetic medicine, with limited effective treatment options currently available. Objectives: To evaluate the efficacy and long-term outcomes of Damask rose stem-cell-derived exosome (RSCE) therapy in the management of diverse dermatological conditions, including traumatic wounds, surgical scars, and atrophic acne scars. Methods: We conducted a case series study from June 2023 to November 2024, documenting four cases with different types of skin damage treated with lyophilized RSCE products. Treatment protocols included a variety of delivery methods such as topical application, microneedling, and post-procedure care. Follow-up assessments were performed at intervals ranging from 7 days to 10 months. Results: All patients demonstrated significant improvements in scar appearance, skin elasticity, hydration, and overall tissue quality. In traumatic facial injury, RSCE therapy facilitated reduction in scar contracture and improved functional outcomes. For atrophic acne scars, comparative treatment of facial sides showed enhanced results with RSCE addition. Acute wounds exhibited accelerated healing with reduced inflammation, while chronic wounds demonstrated improved epithelialization and long-term scar quality. Conclusions: This case series provides preliminary evidence suggesting that RSCE therapy may offer significant benefits in wound healing and scar management. The observed improvements in tissue regeneration, inflammatory modulation, and long-term aesthetic outcomes warrant further investigation through controlled clinical trials.

Background/Objectives: Sulfated hyaluronic acid (sHA) is a chemically modified derivative of native hyaluronic acid (HA), characterized by enhanced physicochemical stability and increased biological activity. Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), including HA, are key regulators of skin structure, hydration, and immune homeostasis. This review aims to critically summarize current knowledge on the structural and functional properties of GAGs—particularly HA and its sulfated forms—and to explore their potential dermatological applications in skin aging and inflammatory diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and acne. Methods: A narrative literature review was conducted using PubMed and Scopus databases up to June 2025, including experimental, preclinical, and clinical studies investigating the biological effects, mechanisms of action, and dermatological uses of sHA compared with native HA and other HA derivatives. Results: Compared with HA, sHA demonstrates increased enzymatic resistance, higher charge density, and improved water-binding and antioxidant capacity. These properties contribute to the restoration of skin barrier function, modulation of oxidative stress and inflammation, and promotion of extracellular matrix remodeling. Preclinical evidence supports the efficacy of sHA in reducing dryness, irritation, and inflammatory responses in atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and acne. Preliminary findings also suggest potential benefits in wound healing and skin barrier repair. Conclusions: sHA represents a promising multifunctional molecule in dermatology and cosmetology, capable of reducing inflammation and supporting tissue regeneration. However, current evidence remains limited to preliminary studies. Future controlled clinical trials are required to confirm efficacy, optimize formulations, and establish standardized treatment protocols.

Hair growth is regulated by the interaction between dermal papilla cells (DPC) and other cells inside the hair follicle. Here, we show the effect and action mechanism of mackerel-derived fermented fish oil (FFO) extract and its component docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) in the control of hair growth. The hair growth effect of FFO extract was evaluated by the culture method of vibrissa follicles and in vivo dotmatrix planimetry method. FFO extract increased the length of hair-fibers and enabled stimulated initiation into the anagen phase of the hair cycle. As expected, FFO extract significantly increased DPC proliferation. FFO extract induced the progression of the cell cycle and the activation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), p38 and Akt. FFO extract induced nuclear translocation of β-catenin, a stimulator of anagen phase, through an increase of phospho-glycogen synthase kinase3β (GSK3β) level. Since various prostaglandins are known to promote hair growth in humans and mice, we examined the effect of DHA, a main omega-3 fatty acid of FFO, on DPC proliferation. DHA not only increased DPC proliferation but also upregulated levels of cell cycle-associated proteins such as cyclin D1 and cdc2 p34. These results show that FFO extract and DHA promote hair growth through the anagen-activating pathways in DPC.

The dermal papilla is a discrete group of cells at the base of the hair follicle and is implicated in controlling the hair growth cycle. Early passage dermal papilla cells can induce hair growth in vivo, but, upon further culturing, this property is lost. In order to study the events occurring in hair induction, a representative dermal papilla cell line was required. We have transfected passage 1 rat vibrissa dermal papilla cells with a polyomavirus large T gene encoding a temperature-sensitive T antigen, and generated permanent cell lines in which the immortalizing function can be switched off by temperature shift. The cells established without crisis, resembled cells in the starting population, and retained the aggregative properties of early passage dermal papilla cells. Growth studies were performed on the immortalized cell lines, which showed that transferring the cells to the restrictive temperature for the large T gene product resulted in cell senescence or quiescence, and changes in morphology. Implantation of cell pellets into the ears of immunologically compatible rats showed that the immortal cells retained hair-inductive ability. Cytokines are believed to have an important role in the control of hair growth. The pattern of cytokine gene expression in the immortal cell lines was compared with early passage dermal papilla cells and a non-hair-inducing dermal papilla cell line, using reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction. Epidermal growth factor, tumour necrosis factor, and interleukin-1a were detected in the immortalized and non-hair-inducing dermal papilla cell lines, but were absent in passage 2 dermal papilla cells. All other cytokines examined were detected in all the cell types under study. These results demonstrate that the polyomavirus large Ttsa-immortalized dermal papilla cell lines are very similar to passage 2 dermal papilla cells and thus provide a good model for hair growth studies. Cytokine expression profiles indicate that the expression of several cytokines may be implicated in hair induction. Further studies are under way to investigate the relationship between cytokine expression and the hair growth cycle.

Hair-follicle regression in the bald scalps of stumptailed macaques develops after puberty, which corresponds to an elevation of serum testosterone and dihydrotestosterone. Using the cultured cells from the pre- and postpubertal macaques, we examined the role of dermal papilla cells in testosterone-induced inhibition of outer root sheath cell proliferation. Testosterone showed no effects on proliferation of either dermal papilla cells or outer root sheath cells cultured alone. Testosterone-induced inhibition of outer root sheath cell proliferation occurred only in coculture with dermal papilla cells derived from the bald scalps of adult macaques but not with dermal papilla cells from the hairy occipital scalps of adult macaques or the prebald frontal scalps of juvenile macaques. Furthermore, RU 58841, an androgen receptor blocker, antagonized this testosterone-elicited inhibition. Together our data indicate that the inhibitory effect of testosterone on proliferation of epithelial cells is age dependent, and androgen may play an essential role in hair growth either by inducing repressor(s) from dermal papilla cells, which may then inhibit the growth of epithelial cells of the hair follicle, or by inducing growth factor(s) from dermal papilla cells, which, in turn, may trigger the induction of some repressors in epithelial cells, thereby inhibiting the epithelial cell growth. Our animal studies also showed that RU 58841 has a dramatic effect on hair regrowth in the bald frontal scalp of the stumptailed macaque, which may further support our in vitro culture studies showing that antiandrogens can antagonize testosterone-elicited hair growth. In summary, our studies may provide a model for further isolation of androgen-regulated repressor(s)/growth factors, which may help control hair growth and baldness.

Whales, elephants, humans, and naked mole-rats all share a somewhat rare trait for mammals: their bodies are covered with little to no hair. The common ancestors of each of these species are considerably hairier which must mean that hairlessness evolved multiple times independently. When distantly related species evolve similar traits, it can be interpreted as a certain aspect of their evolution repeating itself. This process is called ‘convergent evolution’ and may provide insights about how different species were able to arrive at the same outcome. One possibility is that they have undergone similar genetic changes such as turning on or off key genes that play a role in the trait’s development. Kowalczyk et al. set out to identify what genetic changes may have contributed to the convergent evolution of hairlessness in unrelated species of mammals. By looking at the genomes of 62 mammalian species, they hoped to link specific genomic elements to the origins of the hairless trait. The genetic sequences under investigation included nearly 20,000 genes that encode information about how to make proteins, as well as 350,000 regulatory sequences composed of non-coding DNA, which specify when and how genes are activated. This marks the first time genetic mechanisms behind various hair traits have been studied in such a diverse group of mammals. Using a computational approach, Kowalczyk et al. identified parts of the genome that have evolved similarly in mammalian species that have lost their hair. They found that genes and regulatory sequences, that had been previously associated with hair growth, accumulated mutations at significantly different rates in hairless versus hairy mammals. This indicates that these regions associated hair growth are also related to evolution of hairlessness. This includes several genes that encode keratin proteins, the main material that makes up hair. The team also reported an increased rate of evolution in genes and regulatory sequences that were not previously known to be involved in hair growth or hairlessness in mammals. Together these results suggest that a specific set of genetic changes have occurred several times in different mammalian lineages to drive the evolution of hairlessness in unrelated species. Kowalczyk et al. describe the parts of the genome that may be involved in controlling hair growth. Once their findings are validated, they could be used to develop treatments for hair loss in humans. Additionally, their computational approach could be applied to other examples of convergent evolution where genomic data is available, allowing scientists to better understand how the same traits evolve in different species.

Recent reports revealed that neural mechanisms play a role in hair growth control. An induction of murine hair growth is obtained after treatment with substance P (SP). In this study, we examined the expression of a SP receptor: the neurokinin‐1 (NK1‐R) during: 1) the human hair cycle, 2) on isolated hair follicle, and 3) in cultured hair dermal papilla (HDPC) and the impact of NK1‐R ligands on the regulation of hair growth. We used immunohistochemistry, Western blot and RT‐PCR analysis to examine its expression. Anagen hair follicles showed a strong expression of NK1‐R in dermal papilla and in the outer root sheath. Weak expression of NK1‐R was observed in hair follicle at the catagen and telogen stages. Two isoforms of NK1‐R protein corresponding to 44 kDa and 54 kDa were identified in cultured HDPC. A fragment of 640 bp corresponding to NK1‐R was obtained by RT‐PCR. The nested PCR showed the expected band of NK1‐R at 395 bp. HDPC treatment with SP increases the level of NK1‐R gene and protein. The increase is stronger with NK1‐R‐selective agonist [Sar9, Met (O2) 11]‐SP. Ex vivo studies showed a significant dose‐dependent stimulation of hair growth by SP and by NK1‐R agonist. However, the NK1‐R antagonist (L‐732–138). showed a significant inhibition of hair follicle growth. These results demonstrate the presence of NK1‐R in the growing human hair follicle. NK1‐R is activated by SP and NK1‐R agonist. Ex vivo studies indicate that NK1‐R antagonist inhibited hair follicle growth.

의약품의 치료 효과와 유사한 치료활성 기능을 갖는 화장품(코스메슈티컬)의 개발이 증가함에 따라 화장품법에서 규정한 기능성 화장품의 용도인 피부 미백, 주름개선, 자외선 차단 또는 피부를 곱게 태워주는 기능이외의 항염증, 탈모 방지, 비만 개선 등과 같은 의약품의 치료 효과와 차별화되지 않는 다양한 기능을 화장품의 용도로서 특허청구범위에 기재하여 특허출원하는 경우가 증가하고 있다. 그러나 상기와 같은 의약품의 치료 효과와 차별화되지 않는 기능을 화장품의 용도로서 화장품 발명에 기재한 경우 특허요건 판단에 있어서 심사과 및 심사관에 따라 차이를 보이고 있어 심사의 일관성에 대한 요구가 제기되어 왔다. 위와 같은 요구에 부응하기 위하여, 본 논문에서는 국내 기능성 화장품의 특허등록 현황, 심사관들의 견해 및 미국, 유럽, 일본의 화장품 관련 발명의 심사 실무를 파악하여 일관성 있는 특허 심사를 위한 대응방안을 제시하고자 하였다. In Korean Cosmetic Act, four uses of functional cosmetics are recognized: skin whitening, anti-wrinkle, UV protection or suntan. Cosmeceuticals, one of the functional cosmetics, have been specifically developed for medical and cosmetic benefits. However, the uses of cosmeceuticals in patent applications are not limited to those of functional cosmetics, and the number is increasing with variety of medical use claims such as anti-inflammatory, prevention of hair loss, or obesity in cosmeceutical patent applications. Since some of the cosmeceutical use claims are not clearly distinguished from medical use claims in pharmaceuticals, there has been a controversy over the extent of granting patents regarding the medical use of cosmeceuticals. In this article, we have investigated the range of medical uses in patented claims of functional cosmetics, summarized examiners' views and discussed the examination practice of cosmetic-related inventions in the United States, Europe, and Japan.

Prostanoid pathway in hair follicle gained closer attention since trichogenic side-effects on hair growth has been observed concomitantly with prostaglandin F(2alpha) receptor (FP) agonist treatment of intraocular pressure. We thus investigated prostanoid receptor distribution in anagen hair follicle and different cell types from hair and skin. Using RT-PCR, Western blot and immunohistochemistry (IHC), we found that all receptors were present in hair follicle. This data shed new light on an underestimated complex network involved in hair growth control. Indeed most of these receptors showed a wide spectrum of expression in cultured cells and the whole hair follicle. Using IHC, we observed that expression of prostaglandin E(2) receptors (EP(2), EP(3), EP(4)), prostaglandin D(2) receptor (DP(2)), prostanoid thromboxane A(2) receptor (TP) and to a lesser extent EP(1) involved several hair follicle compartments. On the opposite, Prostaglandin I(2) receptor (IP) and DP(1) were more specifically expressed in hair cuticle layer and outer root sheath (ORS) basal layer, respectively. FP expression was essentially restricted to ORS companion layer and dermal papilla (DP). Although extracting a clear functional significance from this intricate network remains open challenge, FP labelling, i.e. could explain the biological effect of PGF(2alpha) on hair regrowth, by directly modulating DP function.

Recent studies strongly suggest that the cannabinoid system is a key player in cell growth control. Since the organ-culture of human hair follicles (HF) offers an excellent, clinically relevant model for complex tissue interaction systems, we have asked whether the cannabinoid system plays a role in hair growth control. Here, we show that human scalp HF, intriguingly, are both targets and sources of endocannabinoids. Namely, the endocannabinoid N-arachidonoylethanolamide (anandamide, AEA) as well as the exocannabinnoid delta (9) -tetrahydrocannabinol dose-dependently inhibited hair shaft elongation and the proliferation of hair matrix keratinocytes, and induced intraepithelial apoptosis and premature HF regression (catagen). These effects were inhibited by a selective antagonist of cannabinoid receptor-1 (CB1). In contrast to CB2, CB1 was expressed in a hair cycle-dependent manner in the human HF epithelium. Since we successfully identified the presence of endocannabinoids in human HF, our data strongly suggest that human HF exploit a CB1-mediated endocannabinoid signaling system for negatively regulating their own growth. Clinically, CB1 agonists may therefore help to manage unwanted hair growth, while CB1 antagonists might counteract hair loss. Finally, human HF organ culture offers an instructive, physiologically relevant new research tool for dissecting "nonclassical" effects of endocannabinoids and their receptor-mediated signaling in general.

Objective: The aim of this work to formulate, evaluate and compare the effectiveness of herbal creams containing extract of reishi and tea tree oil for treating hirsutism.
 Methods: Herbal ingredients were authenticated. Cream base was initially formulated. Three formulations of herbal cream were prepared. Reishi ethanolic extract, tea tree oil, and combination of tea tree oil and reishi extract were added to the cream base and formulated cream were named as RHC, THC and RTC respectively. In vitro evaluations on herbal creams were done for the physicochemical characteristics. In vivo studies were carried out on female Swiss Albino mice for the activity against hair growth by topical application of cream to shaved skin. The histological and morphometric evaluation was carried out. Skin irritancy study was conducted.
 Results: The herbal creams showed desirable physicochemical properties like pH, viscosity and spreadability. Statistical analysis for the length of hair was performed by using one way ANOVA followed by DUNNET’S post hoc test where THC and RTC were found to be significant whereas RHC showed no significant reduction of hair growth compared to control. RTC showed a significant effect at p<0.05 and hair growth reduction was significant for THC at p<0.001 compared to the control group. RTC and THC showed mild to moderate reduction in the size of the hair follicles with a reduction of sebaceous gland size in the histological analysis.
 Conclusion: Topical application of herbal creams to mice showed that hair growth was fastest in group RHC and was slowest in group THC and intermediate with RTC. It can be concluded that these herbal actives can be used as an effective treatment against hirsutism. Within the study period, tea tree oil was found to be more effective than reishi extract and the combination product. Further formulation studies and in vivo studies need to be carried out on reishi to assess its effectiveness against hirsutism.

We report a large Mexican kindred with a variant form of congenital universal hypertrichosis that is inherited in an apparent X-linked recessive manner. In addition to the generalized hypertrichosis, the affected individuals have dental malformations and deafness. Males are more severely affected than females who exhibit only mild hypertrichosis, but not deafness or dental anomalies. Haplotype analysis in this pedigree revealed linkage to a 13-cM region on chromosome Xq24-q27.1 between markers GATA198A10 and DXS8106. Localization of the gene underlying this form of hypertrichosis is the initial step in identifying genes on the X chromosome that are involved in the control of hair growth and development.

Hair growth control: Long-term results

Clinically, soy is touted for its gentle anti-inflammatory actions. In addition to moisturization, it is used to decrease inflammation, minimize hair growth, and effect photorejuvenation, photoprotection, skin lightening, and skin brightening ( 12 , 13 ). Clinical studies support the use of topical soy as a treatment for melasma and photodamage. Research suggested that, over 12 weeks, daily or twice-daily application of a topical soy formula improves overall skin tone and texture, hyperpigmentation, blotchiness, and dullness ( 4 , 5 ) ( Fig. 1.1 ). In a study of six adults, genistein dose-dependently inhibited ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced erythema (14) . Topical soy may also reduce the visibility and coarseness of hair, while increasing its softness and fineness (12) ( Figs. 1.2 and 1.3 ).

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti-ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin-conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.