The epidermal barrier is essential for skin function, resilience, and tolerance to environmental and procedural stress. Disruption of this barrier is common after cosmetic treatments such as chemical peeling, underscoring the need for ingredients with proven biological and clinical support for barrier recovery. This study evaluated dihydrokaempferol (DHK) using molecular, preclinical, and clinical approaches. Gene expression profiling in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts revealed that DHK enhanced barrier-related genes, reduced inflammation-associated markers, and modulated genes involved in extracellular matrix remodeling. Functional assays confirmed antioxidant activity, suppression of stress-induced interleukin 6 (IL-6) release, increased elastin production, and improved fibroblast migration. Clinically, a randomized, placebo-controlled, split-face study following standardized chemical peeling demonstrated that DHK-treated skin showed significant improvements in dermatologist-assessed skin attributes versus placebo. Together, these findings indicate that DHK supports epidermal barrier integrity, modulates dermal repair mechanisms, and enhances recovery from controlled skin stress. The effects observed at the molecular and cellular levels translated into measurable improvements in visible skin quality, highlighting DHK’s potential as a bioactive ingredient.

The incorporation of plant-derived oils into cosmetic formulations has attracted increasing interest due to their natural origin, skin compatibility, and multifunctional formulation roles. Argan and castor oils are widely used in cosmetic products as emollient lipid components with intrinsic antioxidant properties. However, limited studies have systematically evaluated the physicochemical stability and antioxidant performance of emulsions combining these two oils. The aim of this study was to develop and comprehensively characterize a stable oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsion based on argan and castor oils using a natural non-ionic emulsifier (C14–22 Alcohol (and) C12–20 Alkyl Glucoside). Particular emphasis was placed on formulation stability, as it represents a critical prerequisite for further product evaluation. Stability was investigated through thermal stress testing (4–37 °C), centrifugation assays, droplet size analysis, and zeta potential measurements. Complementary physicochemical and structural characterization was performed using rheological analysis and Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. The formulated emulsion exhibited good physical stability with no phase separation under the tested conditions, a skin-compatible pH, a uniform droplet size distribution (4.15 ± 0.68 µm), and pseudoplastic, moderately thixotropic rheological behavior. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, yielding an IC50 value of 19.21 ± 1.02 mg/mL. Overall, this study provides a formulation-oriented framework for the development and evaluation of stable natural oil-based O/W emulsions intended for cosmetic applications, supporting future optimization and biological validation.

Global water scarcity, intensified by population growth, economic development, and climate change, presents a significant challenge, with the cosmetics industry contributing heavily to water demand. Simultaneously, the cork industry generates substantial amounts of cork boiling wastewater (CBW), an acidic effluent with environmental hazards. This study explored CBW’s potential for cosmetic application, focusing on safety, physicochemical properties, and suitability for incorporation in cosmetic formulations. Three CBW samples (A, B and C) were analyzed for pH, conductivity, turbidity, density, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging activity, and total phenolic content. CBW A displayed suitable physicochemical properties and potential antioxidant activity and was selected for further investigation. Human keratinocyte viability was assessed using CBW A before and after adsorption treatment with silica (TCBW A) to reduce cytotoxicity. CBW A was more toxic to human keratinocytes compared to control water, but treatment improved cell viability. This treatment had minimal impact on physicochemical parameters, aside from reducing phenolic content. Metal concentrations in TCBW A remained within cosmetic safety limits. TCBW A was incorporated into an oil-in-water (O/W) cream, which was further evaluated for pH, droplet size, rheological behavior, textural properties, and stability. The resulting cream was homogeneous, woody-scented, with uniform droplet size and stable after centrifugation. TCBW A incorporation provided suitable rheological behavior and formulation stability after 90 days of storage at 25 °C. These findings indicate that TCBW A has low cytotoxicity, suitable physicochemical properties, and provides stable cosmetic formulations, highlighting its potential as a sustainable ingredient for the cosmetic industry.

Background: Keloid scarring is a fibroproliferative disorder driven by a complex interplay of genetic, epigenetic, and environmental factors, resulting in significant cosmetic and functional impairment. Despite its high prevalence in African, Asian, and Hispanic populations, the molecular mechanisms underlying ancestry-dependent susceptibility remain incompletely understood. Methods: This narrative review synthesizes current genomic, epigenetic, and multi-omic evidence related to keloid scarring. Relevant literature was identified through a targeted, structured, non-systematic search of PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, SciELO, and Google Scholar up to August 2025, focusing on genetic susceptibility loci, epigenetic regulation, and ancestry-related differences. PRISMA-ScR guidelines were used as a reporting framework to enhance transparency, without implying a formal systematic review methodology. Results: This synthesis identifies recurrent susceptibility loci at 1q41, 3q22.3, and 15q21.3 across multiple populations. Variants in NEDD4 and regulatory regions near BMP2 emerge as key modulators of profibrotic signaling pathways, including TGF-β/SMAD and NF-κB. Additionally, epigenetic reprogramming and long non-coding RNA networks, such as CACNA1G-AS1, appear to sustain fibroblast hyperactivation. A persistent limitation is the marked underrepresentation of Latin American populations in current genomic studies. Conclusions: Integrating ancestry-specific genomic variation with epigenetic markers is essential for advancing precision diagnostic and therapeutic strategies in keloid scarring. Future research should prioritize diverse, multicenter cohorts and integrative multi-omics approaches to improve risk stratification and enable targeted interventions for this disfiguring condition.

Background: Hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogels are the most widely used injectable fillers for facial rejuvenation. A new generation of HA fillers crosslinked with poly(ethylene glycol) diglycidyl ether (PEGDE) has been developed to enhance cohesiveness, tissue integration, stability, and longevity while minimizing swelling and immunogenicity. Owing to their distinct viscoelastic properties, PEGDE-crosslinked HA fillers may require product-specific selection and adapted injection techniques. Objective: The objective of this study is to provide practical, expert-based recommendations for the safe and effective use of PEGDE-crosslinked HA hydrogels in facial aesthetic treatments. Methods: A multidisciplinary panel of nine Italian experts in aesthetic medicine, each with more than 15 years of experience using HA fillers, developed consensus recommendations based on clinical practice and available evidence. A pre-meeting questionnaire informed structured discussions during a face-to-face meeting held in Paris in January 2024. The nominal group technique was applied, with consensus defined as agreement by at least 80% of panel members. Results: Consensus was reached on product selection, injection planes, delivery devices, techniques, and typical treatment volumes for PEGDE-HA hydrogels across multiple facial regions, including the forehead, temples, midface, nasolabial folds, chin, jawline, and lips. Recommended injection techniques included microbolus, macrobolus, and retrograde linear threading, with placement ranging from superficial subcutaneous to supraperiosteal planes depending on the anatomical area and clinical indication. Typical injection volumes generally ranged from 0.1 to 0.5 mL per side. Optional ultrasound mapping was considered beneficial in selected high-risk or superficial procedures to improve anatomical safety. Conclusions: These expert consensus recommendations provide practical guidance for clinicians using PEGDE-crosslinked HA hydrogels in facial rejuvenation. Tailoring product characteristics to injection depth, technique, and regional anatomy may help optimize clinical outcomes and procedural safety. Future research priorities include prospective comparative studies with other crosslinking technologies, standardized reporting of adverse events, long-term outcome registries, and further evaluation of ultrasound-guided injection strategies.

The cosmetic and personal care industry is increasingly shifting toward plant-derived ingredients that combine multifunctional biological activity with favorable safety and sustainability profiles. Trigonella foenum-graecum L. (fenugreek), a leguminous plant traditionally used in food and medicine, has recently attracted growing attention as a potential cosmetic and cosmeceutical ingredient. This review provides a comprehensive and critical synthesis of current knowledge on fenugreek in the context of skin and hair care applications. First, the phytochemical profile of fenugreek relevant to cosmetics is examined, with emphasis on polyphenols and flavonoids, steroidal saponins, alkaloids (notably trigonelline), and mucilage-rich galactomannans. The biological activities of these constituents are then discussed in relation to key cutaneous and scalp mechanisms, including antioxidant defense, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, anti-glycation and dermal matrix protection, skin hydration and barrier support, as well as hair growth promotion and scalp health. Particular attention is given to recent in vitro, ex vivo, and emerging clinical evidence supporting anti-aging, moisturizing, and hair-care claims. Current formulation strategies and green extraction technologies enabling the incorporation of fenugreek-derived ingredients into topical products are reviewed, alongside considerations of safety, toxicity, and regulatory status under EU cosmetic legislation. Finally, existing research gaps are identified, highlighting the need for standardized extracts, robust clinical validation, and advanced omics-based approaches. This review highlights fenugreek’s strong potential as a versatile plant-based ingredient in cosmetics, despite remaining understudied in topical applications.

Cellulite, a multifactorial condition affecting approximately 98% of women, is characterised by dermal and subcutaneous architectural changes that compromise skin texture and elasticity. Its progression is closely linked to hormonal, vascular, and inflammatory factors, as well as ageing-related extracellular matrix degradation. This review critically evaluates bioactive compounds incorporated into topical and minimally invasive formulations for the management of cellulite and skin rejuvenation. A comprehensive literature search was conducted across major scientific databases and cosmetic ingredient repositories, focusing on active ingredients with demonstrated efficacy in enhancing skin structure. Key compounds include capsaicin, forskolin, L-carnitine, caffeine, retinol, and extracts from plants such as Centella asiatica, which act via lipolysis, improved circulation, and antioxidant effects. Minimally invasive agents, such as deoxycholic acid and poly-L-lactic acid, complement these strategies by inducing adipocytolysis and neocollagenesis, thereby improving skin firmness and contour. Evidence indicates that multi-active formulations combining lipolytic agents with antioxidants and collagen-stimulating molecules yield synergistic benefits, reducing adipose protrusion and improving skin firmness. However, heterogeneity in study design and the lack of standardised evaluation methods limit firm conclusions. Further studies should validate efficacy and optimise delivery. Integrated topical and injectable therapies represent a promising, multifunctional approach to addressing cellulite and age-related skin changes.

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure disrupts dermal collagen homeostasis and accelerates skin aging. This study evaluated the protective effects of black ginseng extract (BGE) against UV-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts. BGE restored collagen-related markers, including COL5A1 and COL7A1, improved fibroblast proliferative capacity, and reduced senescence-associated changes under UV stress. Data-independent acquisition (DIA) proteomics identified broad pathway modulation by BGE, involving extracellular matrix remodeling, chromatin organization, and stress-response processes. To validate genome maintenance-related signals highlighted by proteomics, qPCR showed that BGE increased telomere/replication-associated genes compared with the UV group, including POT1 (2.29-fold) and ORC1 (6.70-fold). In addition, comet assay imaging indicated reduced UV-associated DNA damage features following BGE treatment. Overall, these findings indicate that BGE mitigates UV-induced photoaging phenotypes in fibroblasts, with collagen-related recovery and multi-level protective responses, supporting its potential as a natural bioactive ingredient for anti-photoaging skincare applications.

Oxidative stress is a major factor in skin aging and various skin pathologies. Environmental pollutants exacerbate this stress by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS), disrupting the skin’s redox balance. Pycnogenol®, a French maritime pine bark, extract is standardized to contain 70 ± 5% procyanidins and known to mitigate oxidative damage and inflammation. This study aims to evaluate the potential antipollution and antioxidant effects of Pycnogenol® on skin. Ex vivo human skin explants were treated with varying concentrations of Pycnogenol® (0.5%, 1%, and 2%) and then exposed to a mixture of pollutants. The expression of stress markers Nrf2 (Nuclear Factor Erythroid 2-Related Factor 2) and AHR (Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor) were evaluated using immunostaining. Lipid peroxidation levels were measured by quantifying malondialdehyde (MDA) concentrations. The extract significantly decreased Nrf2 expression by 40% (p = 0.003) and 23% (p = 0.048) with a dose of 2% and 1%, respectively. After pollutant exposure, Pycnogenol® (0.5%, 1%, and 2%) reduced Nrf2 over-expression in a dose–response manner by 29% (p = 0.03), 58% (p = 0.004) and 64% (p = 0.002) respectively. Pycnogenol® at 0.5%, 1%, and 2% significantly reduced AHR over-expression by 61% (p < 0.0001), 76% (p < 0.0001) and 85% (p < 0.0001), respectively. Pycnogenol® (1%, and 2%) decreased MDA levels following pollutant exposure by 17% (p = 0.06) and 25% (p = 0.01) respectively. In a dose-dependent manner, Pycnogenol® exhibited a strong protective effect against pollution, significantly reducing pollutant-induced basal oxidative stress (MDA) and over-expression of Nrf2 and AHR, key factors in oxidative stress and detoxification. Pycnogenol® also increased AHR expression in the absence of pollutants, which may reflect an adaptive cellular response.

This study developed a biodegradable dissolvable face mask incorporating liposomal kojic acid (KA) and licochalcone A from licorice extract (LE) to enhance skin delivery and performance. Liposomes were prepared by thin-film hydration method. The film matrix, composed of PVA/PVP/PEG400/HA, was optimized using factorial design to achieve suitable mechanical strength and rapid dissolution. The optimized mask, containing liposomal KA (1% w/v) and licochalcone A (0.025% w/v), was evaluated for antioxidant activity, ex vivo skin deposition, and short-term efficacy (Approval from the Institutional Review Board of Silpakorn University, Thailand; Ethics Approval No. REC 67.1001-146-7726/COA 68.0320-013 Date of registration: 20 March 2025). The optimized liposomes exhibited a mean particle size of 66–72 nm, entrapment efficiency above 65%, and a zeta potential of −12.5 mV (licochalcone A) and −1.67 mV (KA). Liposomal licochalcone A and KA showed potent antioxidant activity compared to their native forms. The optimized film dissolved within approximately 15 min on moist skin and showed favorable handling properties. Ex vivo studies revealed significantly higher skin deposition of both KA and licochalcone A from the liposomal mask compared with free and liposomal dispersions (p < 0.05). In a 7-day clinical evaluation, the mask significantly improved skin hydration and reduced melanin index (p < 0.05). No irritation or adverse reactions were observed, and user satisfaction was high. This liposomal dissolvable mask offered an effective, well-tolerated, and eco-friendly approach to enhancing skin brightness and hydration, supporting its potential as a sustainable cosmeceutical innovation.